Working on the front end of older cars presents a unique set of challenges. Decades of road grime, rust, and the sheer stubbornness of aged components demand a specific arsenal of tools. Forget your modern car toolkit; wrenching on classic vehicles, especially their front ends, requires a more specialized approach. To effectively diagnose and repair these vintage vehicles, building a dedicated toolbox focused on the front of old cars is not just helpful – it’s essential.
One of the first battles you’ll face is with tie rod ends, often seized and unyielding after years of service. For inner tie rod ends, particularly those lacking wrench flats (common on older models like Jeep Liberties), a small pipe wrench (around 8 inches) becomes your best friend. Its aggressive grip is far superior to standard wrenches or even vise grips, which can slip and require constant readjustment. While a good vise grip has its place, the pipe wrench offers a more secure and efficient solution for breaking loose those stubborn joints. And don’t underestimate the need for a larger pipe wrench as well, especially when adjusting components on vehicles like older Cherokees.
Speaking of wrenches, a comprehensive set is crucial. Wrench sizes up to 27mm should cover most front-end tasks on older cars. While 23mm might seem less common, you’ll find uses for it. A 25mm wrench, often equivalent to 1 inch, is vital for many full-size GM sedans with turnbuckle-style rear toe adjusters. For front toe adjustments on Envoys and Trailblazers, a 26mm wrench is necessary, and a 27mm wrench is indispensable for Toyota trucks, tackling both tie rod jam nuts and cam bolts, especially in tight spaces where sockets struggle to fit. If you have access to borrowed tools occasionally, you might manage with a set topping out at 22mm, but for comprehensive work, expanding to 27mm is highly recommended.
When it comes to wrenches, longer isn’t always better, despite the increased leverage. In the confined spaces of a shop with drive-on lifts, a lengthy 14-inch 22mm wrench can quickly become cumbersome, hitting the rack or wheel well before you can complete a turn. Ideally, consider supplementing your wrench set with large 1/2″ drive crowsfoot wrenches, extensions, and a long-handled ratchet or breaker bar. This combination offers versatility and access in tight spots.
For adjusting sleeves without resorting to potentially damaging pipe wrenches, toe hooks are a worthwhile “specialty” tool. These tools are designed to grip and turn adjusting sleeves without marring the surface, ensuring proper alignment and preventing future issues.
Rust is an inevitable enemy when working on older car front ends, especially in regions prone to corrosion. If a vehicle is over a decade old, anticipate needing a torch and/or an air hammer to loosen seized parts. Applying vibration with a flat bit on a jam nut or the edge of an outer tie rod end can sometimes miraculously free an inner tie rod that seemed impossible to budge just moments before. If vibration isn’t enough, heat becomes necessary. While acetylene torches are the most effective, a propylene gas torch is a significant step up from propane, offering quicker heating. Remember that heat alters measurements, so always have a water bottle ready to cool down heated parts before making adjustments. Heat should be a last resort, but a necessary one in many cases.
For camber adjustments, particularly slotting lower strut mounts, a carbide grinding bit in a die grinder (ideally a right-angle model for better access) is incredibly useful. Complementing this, a robust 1/2″ drive impact swivel is essential, along with both deep and shallow impact sockets up to 27mm. These sockets are crucial for removing lower strut mount bolts efficiently.
Pry bars are indispensable for inspecting lower ball joints before alignments. They are also invaluable for manipulating slotted control arms for adjustments like front camber/caster on Envoys/Trailblazers or rear toe on Saturns.
Finally, don’t forget personal protection. While it might seem basic, a hat is highly recommended. You’ll be surprised how often your head brushes against greasy oil pans and other undercarriage components while working on the front end.
Building a toolbox specifically tailored to the front of old cars is an investment in efficiency and effectiveness. By stocking it with these essential tools, you’ll be well-prepared to tackle the unique challenges of classic car front-end work, saving time, frustration, and ensuring accurate and reliable repairs.
